What greater stupidity can be imagined than that of calling jewels, silver and gold "precious", and earth and soil "base"? People who do this ought to remember that if there were as great a scarcity of soil as of jewels or precious metals, there would not be a prince who would not spend a bushel of diamonds and rubies and a cartload of gold just to have enough earth to plant a jasmine in a little pot, or to sow an orange seed and watch it sprout, grow and produce its handsome leaves, its fragrant flowers and fine fruit. It is scarcity and plenty that make the vulgar take things to be precious or worthless; they call a diamond very beautiful because it is like pure water, and then would not exchange one for ten barrels of water.
~Galileo GalileiI wonder what Galileo would think of calling compost "black gold"? My quest is ever for black gold—soil so rich and dark, and teeming with life and nutrients. When you have black gold, you have incredibly healthy plants, able to fend off disease and pests, abundant in antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. They're stronger, tastier, more productive and pleasing to look at. You eat plants that were grown in black gold, and you reap health benefits as well.
The most accessible and affordable black gold is the black gold you make yourself through the method(s) of composting. You know its quality because you know the quality of the ingredients that went into making it. It's fun, it's satisfying, it doesn't take a lot of effort, and it saves you money on purchasing compost, as well as trash and yard waste bags.
PREFACEThis post is meant to serve as an introduction to and general overview of composting basics. Not all methods of composting are covered here, such as lasagna composting or worm composting a.k.a. vermiculture; those methods will be covered in future blog posts. I will include more how-to instructions for specific bins and methods in future posts as well.
I learned almost everything I know about composting from Rich Pederson, friend and manager of Southside Community Land Trust's (SCLT)
City Farm in Providence, RI, and
Rodale Organic Gardening Basics, Volume 8: COMPOST © 2001. The Rodale book is now out-of-print and apparently selling for hundreds of dollars, but for free, you can visit an organic grower (find local farmers
here) like Rich at City Farm and see first-hand a variety of composting bins, tumblers and piles being used at the farm. I recommend going this May 16th & 17th as it is the
17th Annual Rare & Unusual Plant Sale that benefits SCLT's mission to grow food in and around Providence; Rich has outdone himself again by growing 5,000 tomato plants (all organic and many of them heirloom varieties) in addition to other vegetables, herbs, flowering annuals and perennials.
My husband Ben, Rich and me seated on a wooden bench at City Farm in Providence, RI during a visit last June 2008. Behind us is a plastic mesh compost bin.DEFINITIONComposting is the decomposition of organic materials. It involves a balance of carbon (Dry Browns) and nitrogen (Wet Greens) at about a 3:1 ratio, water and oxygen in the form of air, as well as the activity of millions and billions of microorganisms and creatures living in the soil.
COMPOST INGREDIENTSDRY BROWNS (High-Carbon)
-Dry leaves
-Pine needles
-Pine cones
-Straw
-Hay (can be composted but may have weed seeds)
-Chopped cornstalks
-Eggshells (make sure you wash with warm, soapy water first)
-Nutshells
-Aged sawdust (from untreated, unpainted wood)*
-Wood chips*
-Prunings*
-Twigs*
-Shredded paper (moderate amounts)*
* = Wood and wood products need lots of nitrogen in order to decompose, so it should be used sparingly or with extra wet greens to compensate.
WET GREENS (High-Nitrogen)
-Vegetable scraps
-Fruit scraps, citrus peels & fruit pomaces (acidic)
-Coffee grounds (acidic) & their unbleached paper filters
-Tea bags (acidic)
-Fresh grass clippings
-Fresh leaves
-Weeds (you must soak in water in hot sun for several days to “drown” seeds and roots)
-Green garden debris (like bolted lettuce)
-Hair (pet or human)
-Laundry lint (use biodegradable laundering products)
-Manure from herbivores only (cows, poultry, horses, pigs, rabbits, hamsters, gerbils, etc.). Make sure manure compost is aged properly before using in food gardens.
-Zoo-Doo / Zoo-Poo (zoo animal manure from herbivores: elephants, giraffes, etc.)
-Seaweed & algae
WATER
You can recycle water to be used in watering your compost pile.
-water left over in the salad spinner
-water left over from boiling potatoes or pasta, or steaming vegetables
-water removed from a fresh water aquariums
-water from a hot water bottle
-water leftover in drink glasses or water bottles
-water saved from waiting for it to heat up in the shower or when washing dishes
-
greywater (water from dish washing, bathing or laundry), although special consideration of residues, soaps and cleaning agents is needed
DO
NOT ADD:
-Meat scraps (attracts rodents)
-Dairy products such as milk, cheese, yogurt, and butter (attracts rodents)
-Fats, oils and grease (attracts rodents and can make soil organisms sick)
-Droppings from caged birds (contains harmful bacteria)
-Droppings from dogs, cats, pigs, reptiles or other carnivores (contains harmful bacteria) - [see future post on Composting Pet Waste.]
-Human waste (contains harmful bacteria)
-Diseased plants (so you don't end up spreading disease when you spread your compost)
-Weeds with seeds or roots in tact (so you don't end up spreading weeds when you spread your compost)
-Grass clippings from lawns/yards treated with chemicals
-Highway trimmings or roadside debris (could contain petroleum residues)
-Florist shop wastes (could contain pesticide residues deemed "safe" for flowers but not for food)
-Color or glossy newspapers (could contain heavy metals and chemicals)
-Sunflowers and Black Walnut debris (contain chemicals that prevent other plants from growing)
The smaller the ingredients' fragments, the more quickly they will decompose. For example, cider pomace will compost faster than a slice of apple which will compost faster than a whole apple. Ingredients that are chopped or shredded will compost more quickly than if they were left whole. Let's say you need to compost a whole watermelon; chop it up or at the very least slice it in half before you add it to your compost pile.
COMPOST INGREDIENT COLLECTION METHODS and DEVICESTo collect kitchen waste, a 1-gallon plastic ice cream pail with its lid, or a 5-gallon bucket with a lid, or a plastic bin with a lid work great and can be fit easily under the kitchen sink. You can also purchase a variety of plastic, ceramic, copper, or even bamboo counter-top crocks and pails.
To collect yard waste, paper yard waste bags, trash cans or
Fiskars Kangaroo Pop-Up Bags work well. It's great to keep some dry browns on hand during winter months so that you can be sure that your 3:1 ratio of dry browns to wet greens is maintained.
COMPOST METHODS and DEVICESThere are many types of compost bins, tumblers, and piles. Each device and method has its own pros and cons.
COMPOST PILES or HEAPS
If you live on a farm, in a rural or country area, or have a vast yard, compost piles or heaps are an option for you. Piles and heaps are probably the easiest to create and maintain, and have the scale suitable to deal with lots of leaves and clippings, but they also can be the slowest at delivering the finished compost. Wild animals may seek out your pile for food or warmth, but given the expanse of land, it shouldn't be too problematic. If you own a cat or dog, they can help keep unwanted guests at bay.
Basically you need at least a 3'x3' space situated away from your house. Clear away any debris, especially weeds. Loosen the soil with a spading fork or shovel. You can begin your pile now or dig about 12" down over the entire space that is to be the compost pile, and place the removed soil in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp off to the side to save as soil inoculant. Lay some straw or twigs at the bottom of the pile to help facilitate drainage. Begin layering your dry browns and wet greens, throwing in an occasional scoop of soil inoculant until it is all used up. The soil inoculant will supply the necessary beneficial soil microorganisms and creatures that aid in the decomposition process. Water the pile so that there is some moisture; you want a damp pile not a wet or waterlogged one, so aim for moderation. Keep adding material as you have it, building your pile to a minimum of 3' high. You can go as high and wide as you want it, but generally speaking, the higher and wider the pile, the longer the decomposition of its materials will take; a 3'x3'x3'pile is optimal. If you don't mind waiting a couple of years, you can ignore the pile and let nature take its course. If you want finished compost more quickly, you will need to monitor the pile more closely, aerating and watering the pile when necessary.
COMPOST TRENCHES or HOLES
This is perhaps my favorite method, as this is how my grandmother described my great-grandfather's compost method. Many of my European friends use similar methods in Holland and Germany. You dig a trench 8-12" deep or a hole 18-24" deep in the ground near your back entrance (a kitchen or basement door if you are lucky) or in a fallow section of your garden, setting aside the removed soil to serve later as soil inoculant. The size of the trench or diameter of the hole is dependent on how much kitchen and yard waste you generate. Then put a layer of dry browns at the bottom, fill in with wet greens and top off with more dry browns. The top six inches of the trench or hole should be filled with soil inoculant. This soil will disguise the smell of any of the kitchen waste and prevent unwanted guests from making themselves at home. Mound the remaining dirt on top because as the dry browns and wet greens decompose, the trench or hole contents will shrink and create a pit. Mounding the dirt on top will help prevent a tripping hazard. You can also mark the perimeter of your compost trench or hole with stones, logs or bricks, or place a little flag in the center. If you live in a cold climate and plan on adding to the compost trench or hole during the winter, spread a combination dry leaves and grass clippings on top, or layer a thick carpet of straw (at least 6-8" deep). Dig compost trenches or holes as you need them (make sure holes are dug before the ground freezes). Once the trench or hole is filled, you can let the soil organisms and creature feast as you have essentially built them a cafeteria. They will enter from all sides, eating their way towards the center, thus making this method of composting a rather effective, fast and efficient one. After a couple of months, you should be able to plant directly into the compost trench or hole; your plants should thrive in the rich compost.
If you want to make your compost hole or trench a semi permanent-to-permanent structure to keep any rodents or wild creatures away, you can build a frame (cedar works well because it is rot resistant) slightly larger than the outline of the trench or the opening of the hole. You secure the frame to the ground by driving post in the corners of the frame, about a foot deep. Create a lid that can be hinged, plug fitted or just placed over the pile with a rock or brick to secure it in place. You just lift the lid when you want to add more materials to be composted.
I will be converting my wire compost bin into a compost trench later this spring. Please check back for pics.
COMPOST BINS and TUMBLERS
If you live in a suburban or urban neighborhood where the houses and apartment buildings are close together, a pile or heap might attract unwanted rodents like raccoons or rats, so a more structured bin or tumbler is probably best. Bins are usually stationary, and require aeration using a tool (aerator, pitchfork, shovel) or pole method explained below. Many communities provide a black compost bin that has an uncanny resemblance to Darth Vader. Tumblers are compost bins that are cranked, rotated or rolled for aeration. Tumblers deliver finished compost very quickly, sometimes in just two weeks. This
website gives a good overview of the various compost bins and tumblers available for sale.
For urban composters, a classic "Oscar the Grouch" style metal trashcan with bungee cords to secure the lid works best. Attach bungee cords to the trash can lid so that when the lid is closed, the bungee cords can be hooked around the trash can handles to secure the lid shut. Drill holes on the sides of the can and on the lid for aeration. Drill holes in the bottom of the can for drainage, and set up on cinder blocks. Place a bucket or pan to catch liquid compost which can be added to water to serve as an organic fertilizer.
Here are two types you can build yourself:
Wire Mesh Bin
The above bin was created from 4 pieces of rebar and green coated galvanized wire mesh, materials readily available at most hardware stores and home improvement centers. The green coating is PVC, and although I am not a fan of PVC, it protects the wire from corrosion. The rebar acts as posts to hold the mesh in place, and secure it to the ground. The mesh allows air to easily enter the compost "pile" on all sides. The bottom sits directly on the exposed dirt, allowing access to soil organisms and for drainage.
3-Bin System
The system above was created with recycled wood pallets. Since this is a teaching model at City Farm, each bin is painted a different color and marked Stages #1, #2 & #3. You begin by filling the first bin (marked Stage #1) with dry browns and wet greens, once it's full you move on to the second bin (marked Stage #2), and once it's full, you move onto the third bin (marked Stage #3). By the time you have finished filling the third bin, the first bin should be done decomposing. You remove the compost, toss uncomposted matter into the last bin you started and begin the process again, emptying the next bin as you need it. In order for this system to work effectively, you need to monitor the decomposition process, making sure that there is a good ratio of carbon materials to nitrogen materials, that the pile is moist and aerated, and sustaining temperatures between 80˚ to 160˚F.
COMPOST TOOLSPITCHFORK
A common pitchfork is helpful for adding ingredients, such as straw and grass clippings to the compost pile. It also can be used for tidying up the pile or aerating it (see below).
AERATORS
A
compost aerator allows you to go deep and twist the compost ingredients, creating air passages. You do not to purchase a special tool to do aerate your pile. You can use a pitchfork to lift and shift compost materials. However, if you do use a pitchfork, resist the urge to flip the pile contents. Doing so exposes soil microorganisms to too much air, and they die. If you have a bad back, you can stick poles or PVC pipe into the pule at various places and every few days, remove the poles and place them in a new spot. This will create channels of air, and improve circulation.
COMPOST THERMOMETER
A
compost thermometer generally measures temperatures up to 200˚F. For decomposition to take place, the temperature of the "pile" should fall somewhere between 80˚F and 160˚F.
— 80˚ to 110˚F is a steady pace for decomposition; if your pile is new, add more ingredients & water if necessary and aerate frequently to get the temperature up.
— 110˚to 140˚ is an active pace for decomposition, monitor moisture levels, otherwise, aerate weekly.
— 140˚to 160˚F is the prime pace for rapid decomposition, although temperatures exceeding 140˚F can be cause the smallest soil organisms to die off. Do not allow your pile to exceed 160˚F as it might catch fire; if it exceeds 160˚F, divide the pile, add more ingredients and water it thoroughly.
COMPOST SCREEN
Regardless of what composting device or system you employ, you will need to separate fully decomposed matter from partially decomposed or non-decomposed matter. An easy way to do this is by using a
compost screen, placed over a wheelbarrow, plastic bin or 5-gallon bucket. Basically all you need is a wood frame with heavy gauge galvanized wire 0.25" mesh screen; the frame should be wider than the width of your wheelbarrow or compost catching container. Allow the compost to sift through the screen; whatever remains in the screen, toss back into the compost device for further decomposition. The finished compost can be used to make potting soil or compost tea, or as a soil amendment, or to mulch or side dress beds.
COMPOST TEA RECIPEUsing a 1:3 ratio, mix 1 part compost to 3 parts water.
Stir mixture until compost dissolves completely.
Dilute tea to a light amber color.
Feed garden or houseplants every 2 weeks.
