Patience is the companion of wisdom.
~Saint Augustine
My sister Kristin sent me this article from the NY Times, Slow Gardening Ramps Up: Slow, Easy, Cheap & Green by Steven Kurutz, about horticulturist Felder Rushing. It couldn't have come at a better time, as I am realizing that most of the perennials I seeded won't bloom until next season. Patience...
I laughed out loud when Felder Rushing said, "...I am outside in my bathrobe a lot, and in the mornings I look like Jesus' drunk brother." Classic! I often wonder what my neighbors think of my mismatched tees and plaid and striped pajama bottoms when I am letting Kayla (my sister Kelly's Boxer) out to pee and observing my garden while I wait for her to finish up her business. I don't think I can claim to look like Jesus' drunk sister, but maybe a distant cousin in need of a good cup of tea.
I loved his beautiful cobalt blue glass bottle tree. The cobalt blue would probably be good at attracting pollinators to the garden. Megan McFarland posted directions on How to Make a Bottle Tree on howtodothings.com This may become one of my summer projects.
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Monday, March 30, 2009
Consider the Tomato.
Know your farmer, know your food.
~ Michael Ableman
Today I received my tomato seeds from TomatoFest, and it made me feel very happy knowing that my seeds came from good folks, like Gary Ibsen and Dagma Lacey who share common values. It makes me feel good knowing I will plant, care for, and harvest tomatoes to feed myself, my family, neighbors, friends and PAR. It's empowering and gratifying.
Sometimes people ask, What difference does it make where my food comes from? Let's take a tomato. A common produce item. A staple of the American diet. Should be simple enough.
If a person goes to a store and purchases a tomato, the sign says, "Tomatoes $3.59 per pound". He knows the name of the produce and the price per pound. He may have a choice of grape, cherry, plum, or beefsteak so he can decide if it's for a salad or to slice. He may even look at the tomato and judge it's color and size, and pick one that is a nice red color and has some heft and firmness.
But there are some questions left unanswered.
What variety of tomato is it? What flavor and texture does the tomato have? Is it the most suited variety for the usage or recipe?
Where did the seeds come from that grew the tomato? Have they been handed down generation after generation, from grower to grower? Were they cultivated by the Amish or Native Americans? Were they imported from Italy, Russian, or China? Were they genetically modified in a lab?
Where was the tomato grown? Was it grown by a local farmer? Was is grown in the US? Was it grown in Florida by slaves? Was it grown in Chile and imported?
How far did the tomato travel? How much fossil fuel was used in getting the tomato to the dinner plate? Did the transportation devices (cargo ships, airplanes, trains, trucks) meet pollution-reduction standards?
What type of environment was the tomato grow in? A field? A greenhouse? A hydroponics facility?
What type of soil did the tomato plant grow in? Was it grown it a sustainable fashion? Were manures properly aged to kill harmful bacteria before being added to the soil? What fertilizers and soil amendments were used? Were pesticides, insecticides, or herbicides used? If imported, were the chemicals used to grow the tomatoes legal for farming in the US? How did the fertilizers and other chemical agents used affect the the surrounding ecosystem (birds, bats, bees, butterflies, frogs, mammals including human workers and neighbors, streams, rivers,...)?
What were the working conditions of the farmers who grew the tomato? Did they receive adequate pay and benefits? Did they have a lunch break? Did they have reasonable working hours? Did they have good and safe working conditions? Were they treated humanely, with dignity and respect? If they became injured on the job, did they receive the necessary health care and paid-leave? If they worked with pesticides, insecticides, herbicides, or fertilizers, what is the health risk for them or that of their children? Were proper bathrooms available, or were workers forced to relieve themselves in the fields?
At what stage was the tomato picked? Was it allowed to ripen on the vine to have full nutritional value? Or was it picked before it ripened so that it could "travel" better, and then forced to ripen in ethylene gas chambers?
What packaging and waste was generated in shipping and displaying the tomato? Can any of it be recycled or re-purposed?
It's because I don't feel comfortable not knowing the answers to these questions, that I decided to try to:
- grow as much of my own food as possible;
- support local farmers and producers as much as I can by visiting their farms and farmers' markets; and
- buy local, seasonal, organic or biodynamic whenever possible.
Sometimes it does take more effort, but if you think about the benefits, the rewards are far greater than the effort expended. And sometimes it does cost more in the short-term, but in the long term, I know that the food is healthier for me and the environment, and more respectful to those who labor in the fields, and I consider that a good deal.
If it seems overwhelming, start with tomatoes.
~ Michael Ableman
Today I received my tomato seeds from TomatoFest, and it made me feel very happy knowing that my seeds came from good folks, like Gary Ibsen and Dagma Lacey who share common values. It makes me feel good knowing I will plant, care for, and harvest tomatoes to feed myself, my family, neighbors, friends and PAR. It's empowering and gratifying.
Sometimes people ask, What difference does it make where my food comes from? Let's take a tomato. A common produce item. A staple of the American diet. Should be simple enough.
If a person goes to a store and purchases a tomato, the sign says, "Tomatoes $3.59 per pound". He knows the name of the produce and the price per pound. He may have a choice of grape, cherry, plum, or beefsteak so he can decide if it's for a salad or to slice. He may even look at the tomato and judge it's color and size, and pick one that is a nice red color and has some heft and firmness.
But there are some questions left unanswered.
What variety of tomato is it? What flavor and texture does the tomato have? Is it the most suited variety for the usage or recipe?
Where did the seeds come from that grew the tomato? Have they been handed down generation after generation, from grower to grower? Were they cultivated by the Amish or Native Americans? Were they imported from Italy, Russian, or China? Were they genetically modified in a lab?
Where was the tomato grown? Was it grown by a local farmer? Was is grown in the US? Was it grown in Florida by slaves? Was it grown in Chile and imported?
How far did the tomato travel? How much fossil fuel was used in getting the tomato to the dinner plate? Did the transportation devices (cargo ships, airplanes, trains, trucks) meet pollution-reduction standards?
What type of environment was the tomato grow in? A field? A greenhouse? A hydroponics facility?
What type of soil did the tomato plant grow in? Was it grown it a sustainable fashion? Were manures properly aged to kill harmful bacteria before being added to the soil? What fertilizers and soil amendments were used? Were pesticides, insecticides, or herbicides used? If imported, were the chemicals used to grow the tomatoes legal for farming in the US? How did the fertilizers and other chemical agents used affect the the surrounding ecosystem (birds, bats, bees, butterflies, frogs, mammals including human workers and neighbors, streams, rivers,...)?
What were the working conditions of the farmers who grew the tomato? Did they receive adequate pay and benefits? Did they have a lunch break? Did they have reasonable working hours? Did they have good and safe working conditions? Were they treated humanely, with dignity and respect? If they became injured on the job, did they receive the necessary health care and paid-leave? If they worked with pesticides, insecticides, herbicides, or fertilizers, what is the health risk for them or that of their children? Were proper bathrooms available, or were workers forced to relieve themselves in the fields?
At what stage was the tomato picked? Was it allowed to ripen on the vine to have full nutritional value? Or was it picked before it ripened so that it could "travel" better, and then forced to ripen in ethylene gas chambers?
What packaging and waste was generated in shipping and displaying the tomato? Can any of it be recycled or re-purposed?
It's because I don't feel comfortable not knowing the answers to these questions, that I decided to try to:
- grow as much of my own food as possible;
- support local farmers and producers as much as I can by visiting their farms and farmers' markets; and
- buy local, seasonal, organic or biodynamic whenever possible.
Sometimes it does take more effort, but if you think about the benefits, the rewards are far greater than the effort expended. And sometimes it does cost more in the short-term, but in the long term, I know that the food is healthier for me and the environment, and more respectful to those who labor in the fields, and I consider that a good deal.
If it seems overwhelming, start with tomatoes.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Bringin' Your Own Sunshine.
Wherever you go, no matter the weather, always bring your own sunshine.
~ Anthony J. D'Angelo
If you place your seedlings in the window, while they may get a lot of light, sometimes they will still seem to stretch for it. You may find that their stems are becoming leggy for the effort.
Even in a south-facing window, in late Winter and early Spring, sometimes daylight just doesn't last long enough to give the plants the amount of sunshine they need. Plus, overcast winter skies and spring rain clouds can block the full effect of the sun's rays. And then there's always the perfect window in a great sunny spot, except for the giant tree or neighbor's house blocking it.
Grow Lights are a simple way to get the appropriate amount of light to your young seedlings and plants.
Many gardening supply stores offer a variety of ready-made Grow Lights for sale. They're equipped with state-of-the-art bulbs, reflectors, ventilation, timing devices, etc. And they are an excellent option if you can afford them.
But if you are on a budget like me, and know how to use a drill and a screwdriver, a Grow Light can easily be made at a fraction of the cost.
This video gives a pretty good demonstration of the basics of How to Make a Grow Light. The amount of materials needed will depend on how big the Grow Light is.
TOOLS
- Saw
- Power Screwdriver
- Power Drill
- Wrench, long screwdriver or stick
MATERIALS
- plywood (only necessary if you are combining 2 or more fixtures into a single grow light)
- spray paint (optional)
- self-drilling zinc screws for metal (2 per fixture)
- fluorescent bulb light fixture(s)*
- Daylight 6500 Kelvin Cool Light Bulbs*
- Sunlight 5000 Kelvin Bulbs*
- screw hooks
- lengths of #3 double loop chain
- indoor extension cord with grounded plug (16 gauge, 13 amp)
- light timer (optional)
* Make sure the bulbs to correspond with the light fixture. T5 bulbs go with a T5 fixture, T8 bulbs with a T8 fixture, T12 bulbs with a T12 fixture... Always pay attention to the wattage requirements.
Because of the size of my seedling trays, I decided that my Grow Light needed to be 20" wide and 48" long. So I purchased three 4' 2-light Shop Lights. Since this type of fixture is prevalent in a lot of office, government and school buildings, sometimes you can find these types of fixtures for a couple of bucks at a building material reuse retailer or ResourceXchange type of service. I looked for light fixtures at Pittsburgh's Construction Junction, but unfortunately, they didn't have any. Search Earth911 to locate recycling centers in your area. You might even be able to find some for cheap on Craigslist or Ebay.
I bought two twin-packs of 48" Daylight Cool Light 32 T8 bulbs and two twin-packs of 48" Sunshine F32 T8 bulbs (I have one extra of each bulb in case one breaks or burns out). It is alright to use just the Daylight Cool Light fluorescent bulbs. I also purchased a 2'x4' piece of plywood to mount the fixtures on, a package of screw hooks, a pack of self-drilling screws, 3-outlet indoor extension cord with grounded plug, and 15' of #3 double loop chain.
I unpacked all three light fixtures and lined them up side-by-side light-side-up on top of the plywood so I could mark the cut line for the plywood. (Please note: For safety reasons, the lights were not plugged in and also did not have the bulbs installed.) After the plywood was cut, and the edges were sanded to eliminate splinters, spray paint was applied to the plywood to match the color of the fixtures, and left to dry.
With the fixtures unplugged, I then removed the protective panels from the interiors of all 3 lights, setting aside the screws and washers. There were existing holes, so it was unnecessary for me to drill through the metal, however I still used the self-drilling screws. I lined up for the first fixture with the edge of the plywood, and attached the fixture to the plywood with the screws, being careful not to hit or damage the wires or their casings. I repeated the process for the next two fixtures (making sure all of the plugs lined up on the same end), then reattached all the protective panels, also making sure not to damage the wires in any way.
Making sure not to touch the ends of the bulbs, I carefully inserted the fluorescent bulbs into each fixture, alternating Daylight and Sunshine bulbs, one of each per fixture (Daylight-Sunlight-Daylight-Sunlight-Daylight-Sunlight). I double-checked to make sure each bulb was secure.
With my husband Ben's help, I carefully flipped the entire fixture over. To attach the screw hooks for hanging, we measured halfway on the end, one inch in, and drilled a small hole, then screwed in the screw hook, and repeated on the other side.
We then measured the distance between the two screw hooks, and found a spot on a basement ceiling beam, and drilled two holes for screw hooks that same distance apart. We attached the length of chain to hang the Grow Light. We plugged the individual fixtures into the extension cord and ran it to a grounded socket. Then turned on the individual fixtures.
We positioned the Grow Light to hang just a few inches about the top of the seedling trays to ensure that the seedlings get the proper amount of light. As the seedlings grow, we will raise the Grow Light on the chain.
Shopping for materials took about a half an hour. It cost me $95 to make this particular Grow Light. I could have saved around $30 buying different fixtures, but I liked the sides of these fixtures and the quality better than the cheaper versions. Even at $95, I saved between $130 to $300 by making my own Grow Light.
Assembly (minus the spray paint drying time) took about 30 minutes. Very easy. It does help to have another person to help with the hanging of the fixture especially if there are multiple fixtures.
I can already see a difference in my plants. I think that they are healthier and happier. Now all they need is some Mozart playing in the background.
~ Anthony J. D'Angelo
If you place your seedlings in the window, while they may get a lot of light, sometimes they will still seem to stretch for it. You may find that their stems are becoming leggy for the effort.
Even in a south-facing window, in late Winter and early Spring, sometimes daylight just doesn't last long enough to give the plants the amount of sunshine they need. Plus, overcast winter skies and spring rain clouds can block the full effect of the sun's rays. And then there's always the perfect window in a great sunny spot, except for the giant tree or neighbor's house blocking it.
Grow Lights are a simple way to get the appropriate amount of light to your young seedlings and plants.
Many gardening supply stores offer a variety of ready-made Grow Lights for sale. They're equipped with state-of-the-art bulbs, reflectors, ventilation, timing devices, etc. And they are an excellent option if you can afford them.
But if you are on a budget like me, and know how to use a drill and a screwdriver, a Grow Light can easily be made at a fraction of the cost.
This video gives a pretty good demonstration of the basics of How to Make a Grow Light. The amount of materials needed will depend on how big the Grow Light is.
TOOLS
- Saw
- Power Screwdriver
- Power Drill
- Wrench, long screwdriver or stick
MATERIALS
- plywood (only necessary if you are combining 2 or more fixtures into a single grow light)
- spray paint (optional)
- self-drilling zinc screws for metal (2 per fixture)
- fluorescent bulb light fixture(s)*
- Daylight 6500 Kelvin Cool Light Bulbs*
- Sunlight 5000 Kelvin Bulbs*
- screw hooks
- lengths of #3 double loop chain
- indoor extension cord with grounded plug (16 gauge, 13 amp)
- light timer (optional)
* Make sure the bulbs to correspond with the light fixture. T5 bulbs go with a T5 fixture, T8 bulbs with a T8 fixture, T12 bulbs with a T12 fixture... Always pay attention to the wattage requirements.
Because of the size of my seedling trays, I decided that my Grow Light needed to be 20" wide and 48" long. So I purchased three 4' 2-light Shop Lights. Since this type of fixture is prevalent in a lot of office, government and school buildings, sometimes you can find these types of fixtures for a couple of bucks at a building material reuse retailer or ResourceXchange type of service. I looked for light fixtures at Pittsburgh's Construction Junction, but unfortunately, they didn't have any. Search Earth911 to locate recycling centers in your area. You might even be able to find some for cheap on Craigslist or Ebay.
I bought two twin-packs of 48" Daylight Cool Light 32 T8 bulbs and two twin-packs of 48" Sunshine F32 T8 bulbs (I have one extra of each bulb in case one breaks or burns out). It is alright to use just the Daylight Cool Light fluorescent bulbs. I also purchased a 2'x4' piece of plywood to mount the fixtures on, a package of screw hooks, a pack of self-drilling screws, 3-outlet indoor extension cord with grounded plug, and 15' of #3 double loop chain.
I unpacked all three light fixtures and lined them up side-by-side light-side-up on top of the plywood so I could mark the cut line for the plywood. (Please note: For safety reasons, the lights were not plugged in and also did not have the bulbs installed.) After the plywood was cut, and the edges were sanded to eliminate splinters, spray paint was applied to the plywood to match the color of the fixtures, and left to dry.
With the fixtures unplugged, I then removed the protective panels from the interiors of all 3 lights, setting aside the screws and washers. There were existing holes, so it was unnecessary for me to drill through the metal, however I still used the self-drilling screws. I lined up for the first fixture with the edge of the plywood, and attached the fixture to the plywood with the screws, being careful not to hit or damage the wires or their casings. I repeated the process for the next two fixtures (making sure all of the plugs lined up on the same end), then reattached all the protective panels, also making sure not to damage the wires in any way.
Making sure not to touch the ends of the bulbs, I carefully inserted the fluorescent bulbs into each fixture, alternating Daylight and Sunshine bulbs, one of each per fixture (Daylight-Sunlight-Daylight-Sunlight-Daylight-Sunlight). I double-checked to make sure each bulb was secure.
With my husband Ben's help, I carefully flipped the entire fixture over. To attach the screw hooks for hanging, we measured halfway on the end, one inch in, and drilled a small hole, then screwed in the screw hook, and repeated on the other side.
We then measured the distance between the two screw hooks, and found a spot on a basement ceiling beam, and drilled two holes for screw hooks that same distance apart. We attached the length of chain to hang the Grow Light. We plugged the individual fixtures into the extension cord and ran it to a grounded socket. Then turned on the individual fixtures.
We positioned the Grow Light to hang just a few inches about the top of the seedling trays to ensure that the seedlings get the proper amount of light. As the seedlings grow, we will raise the Grow Light on the chain.
Shopping for materials took about a half an hour. It cost me $95 to make this particular Grow Light. I could have saved around $30 buying different fixtures, but I liked the sides of these fixtures and the quality better than the cheaper versions. Even at $95, I saved between $130 to $300 by making my own Grow Light.
Assembly (minus the spray paint drying time) took about 30 minutes. Very easy. It does help to have another person to help with the hanging of the fixture especially if there are multiple fixtures.
I can already see a difference in my plants. I think that they are healthier and happier. Now all they need is some Mozart playing in the background.
Determining the Last Spring Frost Date.
Poverty, Frost, Famine, Rain, Disease, are the beadles and guardsmen that hold us to Common Sense.
~Ralph Waldo Emerson
I have started seeds for all my lettuces and leafy greens, radishes, onions, leeks, herbs (chives, dill, oregano, basils, thyme, cilantro, lavender), sweet and hot peppers, peas, broccoli, celery and some of my tomatoes indoors under a grow light. Normally some of these plants I'd seed right outdoors like the radishes, onions, and peas but I am waiting for masons to finish up work in my garden area, so I am conducting an experiment to see if I can have any success very gently transplanting these plants once I can get into my garden. Fingers crossed.
Starting seeds indoors is a great way to get a head start on the growing season, shortening the wait to harvest, and also lengthening the growing season. But when you start seeds indoors, you add the additional step of transplanting. When to transplant often coincides with the last Spring frost date, which is an indicator of when you can directly sow seed outdoors for plants like, beans, corn, peppers, tomatoes and members of the curcubitaceae family (melons, gourds and curcubits—cucumbers, pumpkins and squashes).
So how do you determine the last Spring frost date for your area? Last Spring, Cheryl Long of one of my favorite magazine's Mother Earth News, wrote an excellent article on the subject called, Know When to Plant What: Find Your Average Last Spring Frost Date. As she suggested in the article, you can reference the U.S. Department of Commerce's National Climatic Data Center's Freeze/Frost Data, and enter your State to download a PDF file that breakdowns the threshold temperatures and probability of frost for your local area. Although the article suggests otherwise, the 90% probability column is actually the earliest and riskiest dates to plant, as there is a 90% probability that there will be a frost after those dates. If you need to get your plants in the ground at these early dates, you can minimize the likelihood of frost damage by using cold frames, cloches and Reemay cloth. The 50% probability columns mean that there is 50/50 chance of frost after those dates. And the 10% probability column means that there is only a 10% chance of frost after those dates, and therefore on or after those dates is the safest time to seed or plant outdoors.
~Ralph Waldo Emerson
I have started seeds for all my lettuces and leafy greens, radishes, onions, leeks, herbs (chives, dill, oregano, basils, thyme, cilantro, lavender), sweet and hot peppers, peas, broccoli, celery and some of my tomatoes indoors under a grow light. Normally some of these plants I'd seed right outdoors like the radishes, onions, and peas but I am waiting for masons to finish up work in my garden area, so I am conducting an experiment to see if I can have any success very gently transplanting these plants once I can get into my garden. Fingers crossed.
Starting seeds indoors is a great way to get a head start on the growing season, shortening the wait to harvest, and also lengthening the growing season. But when you start seeds indoors, you add the additional step of transplanting. When to transplant often coincides with the last Spring frost date, which is an indicator of when you can directly sow seed outdoors for plants like, beans, corn, peppers, tomatoes and members of the curcubitaceae family (melons, gourds and curcubits—cucumbers, pumpkins and squashes).
So how do you determine the last Spring frost date for your area? Last Spring, Cheryl Long of one of my favorite magazine's Mother Earth News, wrote an excellent article on the subject called, Know When to Plant What: Find Your Average Last Spring Frost Date. As she suggested in the article, you can reference the U.S. Department of Commerce's National Climatic Data Center's Freeze/Frost Data, and enter your State to download a PDF file that breakdowns the threshold temperatures and probability of frost for your local area. Although the article suggests otherwise, the 90% probability column is actually the earliest and riskiest dates to plant, as there is a 90% probability that there will be a frost after those dates. If you need to get your plants in the ground at these early dates, you can minimize the likelihood of frost damage by using cold frames, cloches and Reemay cloth. The 50% probability columns mean that there is 50/50 chance of frost after those dates. And the 10% probability column means that there is only a 10% chance of frost after those dates, and therefore on or after those dates is the safest time to seed or plant outdoors.
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Lessons of an Old Leaf.
We've all got to die sometime.
~ Pap, when me or one of my sisters would complain of a sore throat
Ajahn Brahm, a Buddhist monk, in his book, Opening the Door of Your Heart: And Other Buddhist Tales of Happiness, relates a Thai parable called Falling Leaves about a monk who witnesses a dreadful storm, and how it affected the environment, in particular the leaves on a tree. Many old leaves were on the ground, but also some yellow leaves, and also some small green shoots. When he looked up at the tree, he found that there were many young green shoots, some yellow leaves, and very few old brown leaves. With that the monk understood that the nature of death was similar to this storm.
Everyday I look out of my studio and kitchen window at this tree and the prayer flags blowing in the wind, spreading good will and compassion for the benefit of all. And for months now, everyday I notice this particular old leaf. It held on through the autumn rains, and through winter snowstorms that took ALL of the other leaves off the tree. This old leaf, the last of its tree brethren, also unbelievably survived several vicious wind storms with 70+ mph winds that blew down trees and took out electrical power throughout the Eastern United States.
This old leaf reminds me of my grandmother who outlived her husband, her parents, her siblings and all of her doctors' predictions, and how she kept her humor and spit-fire spirit despite her failing body. Each day, we were thankful to have her, and each day she would wake up saying, "Oh shit. I'm still here.", until on January 31st of this year, she passed away peacefully.
Not a month later, this old leaf was there when my friend Andrea, who one moment was full of life, love and energy, died suddenly from bacterial meningitis, leaving behind her beloved, her parents, and all of her siblings. I hung the prayer flags on the day of her funeral, and that old leaf was there to challenge and comfort me, a reminder of Ajahn Brahm's teaching.
And today, yet another storm, and this old leaf is still there to share its wisdom.
~ Pap, when me or one of my sisters would complain of a sore throat
Ajahn Brahm, a Buddhist monk, in his book, Opening the Door of Your Heart: And Other Buddhist Tales of Happiness, relates a Thai parable called Falling Leaves about a monk who witnesses a dreadful storm, and how it affected the environment, in particular the leaves on a tree. Many old leaves were on the ground, but also some yellow leaves, and also some small green shoots. When he looked up at the tree, he found that there were many young green shoots, some yellow leaves, and very few old brown leaves. With that the monk understood that the nature of death was similar to this storm.
Everyday I look out of my studio and kitchen window at this tree and the prayer flags blowing in the wind, spreading good will and compassion for the benefit of all. And for months now, everyday I notice this particular old leaf. It held on through the autumn rains, and through winter snowstorms that took ALL of the other leaves off the tree. This old leaf, the last of its tree brethren, also unbelievably survived several vicious wind storms with 70+ mph winds that blew down trees and took out electrical power throughout the Eastern United States.
This old leaf reminds me of my grandmother who outlived her husband, her parents, her siblings and all of her doctors' predictions, and how she kept her humor and spit-fire spirit despite her failing body. Each day, we were thankful to have her, and each day she would wake up saying, "Oh shit. I'm still here.", until on January 31st of this year, she passed away peacefully.
Not a month later, this old leaf was there when my friend Andrea, who one moment was full of life, love and energy, died suddenly from bacterial meningitis, leaving behind her beloved, her parents, and all of her siblings. I hung the prayer flags on the day of her funeral, and that old leaf was there to challenge and comfort me, a reminder of Ajahn Brahm's teaching.
And today, yet another storm, and this old leaf is still there to share its wisdom.
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Obamas Grow Organic!
Have patience! In time, even grass becomes milk.
~Charan Singh
Finally! What excellent news!
The First Family is planting an organic vegetable and herb garden on the South Lawn of the White House! Plus, they are keeping 2 hives of honey bees! Check out the NY Times article with pics of the garden plans.
~Charan Singh
Finally! What excellent news!
The First Family is planting an organic vegetable and herb garden on the South Lawn of the White House! Plus, they are keeping 2 hives of honey bees! Check out the NY Times article with pics of the garden plans.
Sharing the Harvest.
A hundred times a day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are based on the labor of others, living and dead, and that I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as I have received and am receiving.
~Albert Einstein
The economy is weighing on every one's mind. Some folks have lost their jobs, or lost their homes. Others are counting their blessings. And 33 million Americans are struggling to keep themselves fed.
- FeedingAmerica.org is reporting that 1 in every 8 Americans is hungry.
- FeedtheChildren.org is reporting that 12 million children in the US are at risk of going hungry.
- On February 9th, President Obama announced to the Nation that food banks do not have enough to meet the demand.
It may seem early to be talking about the harvest, when seeds are just being planted or in the early stages of sprouting. But it is not too early to plan to give away part of your harvest of fresh vegetables, herbs, fruits and berries.
Perhaps you know someone who is out of work and struggling to make ends meet, a coworker who was laid off, a family with a lot of mouths to feed, or a elderly neighbor whose retirement funds took a serious hit. When thinking about your food garden, and the bounty to come, perhaps you can remember these folks by dedicating some of your plants to easing their burden. It's as simple as dropping off a basket of tomatoes, a dozen ears of corn, green beans or whatever other crops you have on hand. If you like to cook, perhaps you can share your harvest in the form of a pot of vegetable stew, some blueberry muffins, a loaf of zucchini bread, a batch of fresh salsa, some stuffed peppers, a spinach quiche, a crock pot of chili, or veggie kabobs. Perhaps you can give them a potted tomato plant or two with some help on how to take care of it so they can also grow food.
The Garden Writers Association has a public service program called Plant a Row for the Hungry. They are asking food gardeners to plant additional plants and then donate the harvest from those plants. If you don't have a large garden, donate what you can, 1 full grocery bag or 25 pounds of fresh produce would greatly help them to meet their goal of feeding hungry families in your community and others across the US.
Donating a portion of your harvest to a local food bank or soup kitchen can enrich the diets of local families and children. Find a Food Bank near you.
If food gardeners everywhere will pledge to share just a bit of their harvest with someone in need, great strides will be made in feeding our communities. It doesn't take much. As Theodore Roosevelt said, "Do what you can with whatever you have wherever you are."
~Albert Einstein
The economy is weighing on every one's mind. Some folks have lost their jobs, or lost their homes. Others are counting their blessings. And 33 million Americans are struggling to keep themselves fed.
- FeedingAmerica.org is reporting that 1 in every 8 Americans is hungry.
- FeedtheChildren.org is reporting that 12 million children in the US are at risk of going hungry.
- On February 9th, President Obama announced to the Nation that food banks do not have enough to meet the demand.
It may seem early to be talking about the harvest, when seeds are just being planted or in the early stages of sprouting. But it is not too early to plan to give away part of your harvest of fresh vegetables, herbs, fruits and berries.
Perhaps you know someone who is out of work and struggling to make ends meet, a coworker who was laid off, a family with a lot of mouths to feed, or a elderly neighbor whose retirement funds took a serious hit. When thinking about your food garden, and the bounty to come, perhaps you can remember these folks by dedicating some of your plants to easing their burden. It's as simple as dropping off a basket of tomatoes, a dozen ears of corn, green beans or whatever other crops you have on hand. If you like to cook, perhaps you can share your harvest in the form of a pot of vegetable stew, some blueberry muffins, a loaf of zucchini bread, a batch of fresh salsa, some stuffed peppers, a spinach quiche, a crock pot of chili, or veggie kabobs. Perhaps you can give them a potted tomato plant or two with some help on how to take care of it so they can also grow food.
The Garden Writers Association has a public service program called Plant a Row for the Hungry. They are asking food gardeners to plant additional plants and then donate the harvest from those plants. If you don't have a large garden, donate what you can, 1 full grocery bag or 25 pounds of fresh produce would greatly help them to meet their goal of feeding hungry families in your community and others across the US.
Donating a portion of your harvest to a local food bank or soup kitchen can enrich the diets of local families and children. Find a Food Bank near you.
If food gardeners everywhere will pledge to share just a bit of their harvest with someone in need, great strides will be made in feeding our communities. It doesn't take much. As Theodore Roosevelt said, "Do what you can with whatever you have wherever you are."
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